Best practices for current and futuristic cosmetic claims

The cosmetics industry’s self-regulatory system is an important tool for promoting innovation by adopting a dynamic and flexible approach to rapidly evolving technology and market conditions. As marketing and product presentation plays an important role in the cosmetics industry, various claims linked to cosmetic products are made in order to persuade consumers of their efficacy. Best practices for cosmetic claims must be used and frequently reviewed to protect the consumer, promote fair competition and maintain a positive image of the industry with the continuous development of new products. The difficulty with this approach is ensuring compliance with the common claims criteria on a case-by-case basis. This presentation addressed the current situation for consumers with regard to claims. With future developments of products in the ‘grey area’, an overview was given on how the consumer could be protected from misleading claims in the industry by providing an outline of possible solutions. We also discussed whether the self-regulatory initiatives are sufficient to protect the consumer from misleading claims and whether there is a need for claims to undergo an authorisation procedure in order to ensure an accurate reflection of product efficacy

Instrumental and sensory characterisation of oleogels for cosmetic use

Oleogels are semisolid systems consisting of an oleogelator (gelling agent) and a lipophilic liquid phase. Despite having some distinct advantages (e.g. absence of preservatives or surfactants), the use of oleogels in cosmetic products is still sporadic. The aim of this study was to compare the effects of different types of oleogelators on instrumental and sensory properties of oleogels made with common emollient types: hydrocarbon, synthetic ester and natural oil

An ex vivo comparative study of the tensile strengthening efficacy of protein-derived actives on heavily bleached hair

The damaging effects of oxidative bleaching are most evident in hair which has been lightened from dark shades to platinum blonde. Whilst conventional conditioning agents effectively manage cuticular damage, the reversal of cortical weakening of hair poses a greater challenge. A number of protein-derived commercial actives claim the ability to strengthen the hair fibre when used in conditioning products. The aim of this study was to compare the relative efficacy of hydrolysed wheat protein, L-arginine and hydrolysed collagen in improving wet and dry tensile properties of heavily bleached hair tresses

Assessing the sensitivity of two TEWL measuring methods: open vs. closed chamber

Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) is a key parameter in the assessment of skin barrier impairment and recovery. The aim of this study was to perform a comparative assessment of the two types of TEWL instruments, with specific emphasis on their sensitivity in detecting small differences. An open chamber (Tewameter TM300, Courage & Khazaka, Germany) and a closed, condenser-chamber instrument (AquaFlux AF200, Biox Systems, UK) were used in the study. A complimentary skin hydration test (Corneometer CM825, Courage & Khazaka, Germany) was also carried out. In the first study, the closed chamber results have revealed two additional sets of significantly different data, in comparison to the open chamber method. In the second study, where the level of barrier impairment was higher, both methods have resulted in the same statistical outcome. It was concluded that the condenser-chamber instrument possesses higher sensitivity than the open chamber when assessing small differences in TEWL, under the same experimental conditions

Estimation of Reference Evapotranspiration Using Support Vector Machines: a Case Study of Adana, Turkey.

Evapotranspiration is an important parameter in hydrological and meteorological studies. Evapotranspiration forecasting plays an important role in irrigation management and hydraulic designs, especially during dry periods. In this study, average temperature (T), relative humidity (RH), wind speed (U), solar radiation (SR) parameters were used to estimate the daily evapotranspiration amount. Daily evapotranspiration estimation (ET0) was made according to the Penman-Monteith method recommended by FAO (Food and Agriculture Organization) as a standard method. The Penman-Monteith method was considered as the reference equation. Support Vector Machines (SVM) methods with four different input combinations were used to estimate the daily evapotranspiration of Adana province. SVM models were compared with each other and the reference equations’ results. According to the results obtained from SVM models, SVM3 model giave slightly better results according to the higher determination coefficient and lowest error data

Colour matched cosmetic foundations for black skin tones

Foundations are the most commonly used decorative cosmetics on the market, and a natural-looking finish is one of their most preferred performance attributes. This puts the pressure on product developers to better match consumer skin tones;1-3 and the process of color-matching foundations true to skin is a challenge. This is due, in part, to the different biological factors defining skin color. These must be transposed into the correct blend of cosmetic pigments, which defines the color of the foundation. Internal market research has demonstrated that in the United Kingdom, the range of cosmetic foundations available for dark skin tones, i.e., Fitzpatrick types V and VI, is considerably disproportionate to the range of products available for lighter skin tones, i.e., Fitzpatrick types I and II. In fact, of a total of 343 foundation shades observed in mainstream retailers, only 9% were suitable for consumers with dark skin. This compared with 67% for lighter skin tones. Furthermore, consumers having darker skin tones report being dissatisfied with commercially available foundations, meaning their needs are not being met by the cosmetics industry. In relation, this study focused on the development of a foundation to effectively match a range of black skin tones. New pigments were tested in varying ratios and in vivo color measurements were made, as described here. - See more at: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/category/ethniccare/Color-Corrected-Perfectly-Tuning-to-Black-Skin-Tones-414726553.html#sthash.h0Hs8AfO.dpu

Cosmeceuticals?

Contribution to Expert Clinic "The Future Of Cosmeceuticals: Innovative Science And Applications By Leading Experts In The Field Of Dermatology" Mustafa Varçin defined the term cosmeceuticals, and discussed their current market position

Cosmeceuticals (part 2)

The authors present some of the major classes of common ingredients used to enhance skin appearance (e.g., retinoids, hydroxyacids, vitamin B3 and antioxidants) within cosmetic products

Can the use of reading tasks enhance students' confidence in the use of academic literature?

This article explores the growing diversity of the modern student body and the growing need to prepare students for reading at a tertiary level. It describes a small-scale case study that was devised with the aim of assessing and enhancing student engagement with academic literature by introducing guided reading tasks during the first term of Year 1 of the BSc (Hons) in Cosmetic Science at London College of Fashion (UAL). After outlining the literature that informed the design of these tasks, this article discusses the project results, which indicated that students found guided reading helpful with the added effect of increasing their confidence as independent learners

Cosmeceuticals: definitions, regulations and a review of the market (part 1)

With the increasing longevity and quality of life of the global population, a youthful and healthy looking skin has become increasingly important for people to feel confident in their social interactions. Consumers are also looking for more cost-effective non-invasive methods, such as the use of cosmetic products, to improve the appearance of their skin. The rapidly evolving knowledge of skin physiology and its functional deterioration with age has led to the continuous development of active compounds and topical formulations that may induce the recovery of biological functions affected by age. Strong claims linked to active compounds are made in order to persuade the consumer of their efficacy. The term ’active compounds’ also refers to substances incorporated in a formulation to create a biological effect that would not be elicited from its vehicle alone. The term ’cosmeceutical’ has been introduced by the cosmetics industry to describe an ingredient / product that has a measurable biological action in the skin like a pharmaceutical product, but is regulated as a cosmetic product since it claims to affect appearance. Indeed, the difference between some cosmetic and pharmaceutical products is shrinking, as the cosmetics industry invests heavily in Research & Development, allowing it to perform increasingly cutting-edge research and launch cosmetic products of high quality standards coupled with high safety of use. Conversely, the cosmetics industry does not want to be involved with the regulatory burden and costs associated with drug development. A recent report highlighted a strong growth for cosmeceuticals and forecast that this market will reach $42.4 billion by 2018